Wine is above all food; that is how I fundamentally understand it. In the same way that sugars or refined flours have poorer nutritional quality than their whole-grain counterparts, so do refined wines. That is why I defend the idea of unrefined wines, without clarifying or filtering, free of preservatives and fiddling around. And as in all food, we must begin to demand the details of the ingredients on the labels.
EPHEMERAL WINES
In general, I make small batches of unrepeatable wines. When the batch is finished,...