As anywhere else, the world of wine has its own set of moral rules. They form a great compendium of what is right and what is wrong, which is mostly defined for technical and marketing reasons: “Wines cannot be cloudy”, or “Wine needs to spend time in a barrel in order to age well”, or “White grapes are not to be fermented with their skins”, or “You must use some kind of additive”, or “Bitter or herbaceous wines are a no-go”, and a long string of so called “defects”.
All that conforms a morality where you can put anything in the wine without having to say anything, but if you want to do it organically, you will have to pay a certifying agency in order to be able to say so.
Therefore, going against the current means to be outside morality. And the only good thing about morality is that it slowly changes over time. It is up to each one of us to decide whether we are with those who support morality or with those who fight it.